Cuba, the 10th and final country on my trip. Don’t really know what I was expecting from Cuba. I’d heard mixed reports from people but one thing everybody has said was that things are slow. I found this out for myself at the airport.
After landing whilst queing to come through passport control a lady who works for the government started asking questions to the people in front of me. She couldn’t speak English, they couldn’t speak Spanish. I thought I’d try and be helpful and translate. All that ended up happening was she stopped asking them questions and started asking me. It was mostly the usual immigration style questions, but I didn’t expect to only be getting out the airport over an hour later. ‘Bienvenido a Cuba!’
Anyway onto La Habana. Personally I found it hard to relax and enjoy Habana. Although I have a decent tan from travelling, I clearly stick out as a tourist. Which meant that all the time I was approached by locals. Locals who knew about a cigar festival that was today only! Or who wanted to have a conversation. Usually the conversation starts off nice enough but it isn’t long before it leads into ‘No es facil en Cuba’ (It is not easy in Cuba) and them ultimately asking for money. I understand that it can be tough in Cuba, especially for those who don’t work with tourists. The two currencies has helped create a ‘have’ and ‘have not’ culture. But it got to the point in Habana where it felt like I couldn’t relax, trust locals and was just being seen as a walking ATM. You have to be strong and say no to giving money over or buying people drinks etc etc.
Also had another experience of slow Cuba. If you can avoid going into the banks in Cuba, then avoid it. When you go in, there isn’t really a queing system. Instead you ask ‘El Ultimo?’ (The last?), take a seat and just watch for when the person who is the last to go up. But you’ll be waiting a long time. Nothing happens fast in Cuba. No es facil. Either technology isn’t working or they are just having a conversation and you’re just there waiting, feeling your life drain away!
That aside Habana does have nice points. Some of the architecture is amazing, and work is ongoing to restore the rest of what needs doing. There is also a really cool cultural centre, La Fabrica de Arte that I went to one night. Is a really cool art gallery/performance space/bar that could easily be in Berlin. And the mojito frappes went down smoothly.
Also walking through Habana, especially Centro, you can people watch and be exposed to a unique way of life. Cubans are also generally relaxed. It’s hot so they wear shorts, not like Mexico where they wear jeans! Or women are walking around with curlers still in their hair.
After a few days in Habana, I left for Cienfuegos. Much more relaxed and chilled than Habana. Turned out to be my favourite place in Cuba. But only after I had a 15/20 minute argument with the taxi driver over the fare. At least I know my Spanish is at a good enough level for that!
In Cienfuegos I managed to have conversations with locals without being asked for anything, spent time just watching people hand line fishing and got a free dance lesson when I went out! Still rubbish at salsa though.
After a few days in Cienfuegos, I continued down to Trinidad. More touristy then Cienfuegos but not quite at Habana levels. Although the increased tourism does mean you’re getting hassled again, with people trying to get you to stay at their casa, cab drivers pestering you for a fare or people being able to get you cheap cigars. But like Cienfuegos and Habana, Trinidad has some beautiful architecture. I also got an impromptu chess lesson. Still rubbish at chess though. Also went horse riding for the first time. Horse riding is fun, saddle sore isn’t.
When it came time to move from Trinidad, I wanted to go to Santa Clara. Go to the bus stop, bus is sold out for that day and the next. No worries, will get a collectivo (shared taxi). No, no es facil en Cuba. There wasn’t anybody else who wanted to go to Santa Clara. So end up sitting at the bus station for 6/7 hours waiting for some other people who want to go Santa Clara to come along. Again things move slow in Cuba, time is not important. But it did mean that I got to see the taxi drivers working their tricks, along with the casa owners. Interesting, but an experience and insight that I could live without.
In Santa Clara the main thing to do is hit the Che trial and visit the memorial. Apart from this I just wandered and explored the city, having conversations with locals who did mention ‘no es facil’.
Also heard ‘no es facil’ when the taxi broke down 2/3 times on the way to Matanzas from Santa Clara. Once in Matanzas I just spent a few days exploring and looking forward to hearing home. By this point I was really looking to getting home. I was craving some proper food, was not a fan of Cuban food. There is a reason Cuba is known for rum and cigars and not pizza…..
Of course I picked up some rum and cigars before I came home. But also before I came home, I got one more experience of slow, ‘no es facil en Cuba’. At the airport, had to que for 2 – 2 half hours to check in and drop my bags off.
Whatever happens with Cuba in the future with it’s changing relationship with America, I’m sure it ain’t gonna happen fast!
As for me, I’m now back home and have been for just under a week. Not sure what happens next, but sure it will be alyrt. The past five months have been amazing and if anyone is thinking of going Central America then go.
Joe From Bow 